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Open only in summer
from 16 June to 23 September 2018

Alpine hut in prime location right in front of the famous Vajolet towers

Come to the Re Alberto 1° refuge in the UNESCO World Heritage Dolomites to hike, climb or to make an excursion in the impressing mountain scenery

Being a prime location, right in front of the Vajolet towers, there are many reasons to arrive at Re Alberto 1° refuge:

climbing, walking through the Santner pass via ferrata or simply to admire the beatiful scenery and the world-known Vajolet towers.
The refuge is the starting point of some of the most beautiful climbing routes in the Dolomites: the easiest Rosengarten peak, the Emma peak and the Vajolet towers. The most celebrated “Delagokante”, the easy normal route on the Stabeler tower and the less crowded but beautiful ascent on the Winkler tower.
To receive more detailed information we suggest you to call us at the refuge (T. +39 0462 763428; mobile: +39 334 7246698). For professional advices contact directly the School of Alpinism Dolomiti www.guidealpinedolomiti.net

Excursions

Rosengarten tour and Santner pass via ferrata

Hiking around the Rosengarten mountains along the Santner pass via ferrata in the best way to enjoy the beautiness and breathtaking views of the Dolomites. The easy trail follows the natural conformation of the rocks and it allows you to enter the unforgettable Laurin's Kingdom.
It opens the door to the Gartl basin with his jewel known as Vajolet towers.
The proposed “hiking ring” here below is really one of the absolute must in the Dolomites!

ROUTE

Starting on the left hand side of the Fronza Coronelle refuge, climb through the rock systems mainly characterized by grooves where sometimes large boulders and horizontal slabs of rock stand.
The via ferrata was completely renewed in October 2013 and it's well marked with iron ropes, steps   and little laddders. Approach with care where the path is not equipped. The rock is always good and it's easy to find alternative steps which allow any overtaking without stepping on hands and feet of the slowest hikers.
Arriving at the needles Schrofenegger (2650 mt), descend twenty meters down to reach the deep canyon, the bottom of which is the characteristic snowfield to go up first to the right side and then on the left. The snow usually is well beaten but sometimes icy. However, use always your equipment!
The canyon ends down in a sheer drop over a hundred meters deep. A steep wall takes you out of it reaching the top at the Santner pass (2741 mt – 2,15 hours to here).
We are now on the upper edge of the beautiful Gartl valley: bounded on the left by King Laurin crag, on the right by Rosengarten peak, and on the background by the strikingly slender shapes of the Vajolet towers: Delago, Stabeler and Winkler.
The wonderful view opens towards the green meadows of Tyrol.

DESCENT

From Santner pass, following the path no. 542 which overlooks the Gartl valley and quickly reach the lake and the Re Alberto 1° refuge (2621 mt) at the foot of the famous Towers.
From the refuge the path descends among the boulders smoothed by countless passages, the large ravine leading to the Vajolet and Preuss huts(2243 mt).
From here the path descends to the Gardeccia basin. After a couple of curves, follow the signs to the right (path no. 541), leading under the East wall of the Rosengarten. It ends with a steep climb on path no. 550 to the top of the hill, the Coronelle Pass (2630 mt). In twenty minutes you reach the Fronza Coronelle refuge.
For those who wish to return to Ciampediè and then in Vigo di Fassa, without going through the Coronelle Pass: from Vajolet refuge follow path no. 546 to Gardeccia refuge and then path no. 540 to the Ciampediè refuge.

DIFFICULTIES

The via ferrata is not difficult, but it requires the ferrata set equipment (helmet, a purpose-made lanyards, climbing harness, carabiners with a braking device and ferrata gloves).
It is common, during the ascension of the equipped path, to meet hikers who walk the route in reverse: attention to some problems of crossing and falling stones.
Inquire about the snow conditions of the canyon, and the possible presence of other icy patches along the ascent route.
We highly recommend you to ask for updated information about the canyon condition to the local mountain guides or the Re Alberto 1 ° refuge (tel: +39 763 428 0462, Mobile: +39 334 7246698).
The ring route proposed here requires a good physical workout. We suggest to make the tour in two days, staying overnight at the Re Alberto 1° refuge, which is half way. To fully enjoy the wonder of the towers and relax for the next day!

The most famous climbing routes

Vajolet towers

1. Piz Piaz – South/East corner

Difficulty: IV+
Height difference: 55 mt
Climbing route: 55 mt
Rope lengths: 2
Hours: 10 minutes from the hut to the starting point.; 1 hour to the summit
Rock: very good
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note
: tiny but dangerous tower, recently suffered the collapse of the North side. It a good training spot for those staying at the Re Alberto 1° refuge.

2. Delago tower, “Piaz” corner

Difficulty: IV, one passage IV+
Height difference: 130 mt
Climbing route: 156 mt
Rope-lengths: 6
Hours:10 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent
Gears: normal climbing equipment and the use of magnesium is recommended, as it's an air climbing on polished rock where some features are required.
Note: the “Delagokante” is one of the most celebrated of all alpine climbs! Really pleasant ascent, too bad it ends too soon! Good rock holds but rather smoothed by the passage. Crowded on weekends.

3. Delago Tower, Preuss crack

Difficulty: IV+, V-
Height difference: 120 mt
Climbing route: 140 mt
Rope-lengths: 6
Hours: 10 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,00 hours to the summit
Rock: good
Gear: normal climbing equipment + nuts and cams
Note: very interesting climbing signed by a great man of mountaineering. A little overlooked in favor of the neighbors routes more famous!

4. Stabeler Tower, Fehrmann route (South face)

Difficulty: III, IV, one IV+ passage
Height difference: 145 mt
Climbing route:155 mt + 10 mt to the summit
Rope-lengths: 6 + 10 mt to the summit
Hours: 10 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: very well known route on good rock often sheltered from cold drafts.

5. Stabeler Tower, Normal route (East-South/East face)

Difficulty: IV-
Height difference: 145 mt in addition to a short stretch of easy platform
Climbing route: 187 mt
Rope-lengths: 7
Hours: 10-15 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 1,45 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: it's the highest point of the three towers (2805 mt). Good rock, a little polished by the passage. A typical route recommended even to beginner climbers.

6.  Winkler Tower, “Steger” (South face)

Difficulty: VI
Height difference: 140 mt
Climbing route: 170 mt + 7 mt transition
Rope-lengths: 6
Hours: 10-15 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent, good the first rope-lenght
Gear: normal climbing equipment, a complete stopper series and cams no. 2,5 - 3
Note: beautiful and challenging route with two austere shots. The climbing is restless and puts a strain on the muscles of the better shaped climbers!

7. Winkler Tower, Normal route (South/East face)

Difficulty: IV+
Height difference: 140 mt
Climbing route: 215 mt
Rope-lengths: 7
Hours: 10-15 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30-3,00 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: the least popular of the towers but no less beautiful than the others. The climbing involves passing the crack "Winklerriss". In 1887, when it was first surpassed, the upper limit of the climbing difficulties reached the Alps. Do not underestimate the polished rock.

Crossing the three towers

Since long time climbing the three towers in one day has always been considered a very prestigious feat. This can be accomplished from West to East or East to West, and allows you to visit them all by offering a day of "rock" climbing into a place full of charm!

Abseil the towers

All the towers are equipped with abseil rings cemented-in.
If you own two 60 mt ropes, you can abseil with only two descents.

The Rosengarten peak normal route

Rosengarten peak, Normal route

Difficulty: II - III, the first pitch III+
Height difference: 180 mt to the ledge, 190 mt along the summit ridge
Climbing route: 344 mt
Rope-lengths: 5 + 55 mt with “short rope”
Hours: 30 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,00 hours to the summit
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: the climbing offers an exceptional view from the summit! It's real fun for beginners as long as they have climbing basic knowledges.

2. Rosengarten peak, Piaz/Delago route

Difficulty: IV+
Height difference: 160 mt
Climbing route: 165 mt
Rope-lengths: 6
Hours: 30 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 2,30 hours to the summit
Rock: good but the last pitch has to be cleaned
Gear: normal climbing equipment + cams no. 3
Note: a nice alternative way to the normal route that goes up in chimneys and corners with good rock. Avoid with low temperatures.

Abseil from Rosengarten peak

From the summit, walk down the North ridge with "short rope" to the "normal route". At the fork, to the left, follow an exposed ledge (15 mt) that leads to the first cemented ring. The first abseil descends along the channel of ascent. This is followed by two 20 meters abseils using cemented rings. Head down to Santner pass refuge. From here, the path leads to the Re Alberto 1° refuge. Abseil time 2 hours.

Rosengarten peak North face

1. Rosengarten peak, Solleder route

Difficulty: V+
Height difference: 300 mt
Climbing route: 337 mt + 100 mt initial ramp
Rope-lengths: 11 + 100 mt initial ramp
Hours: 5 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 3,00-4,00 hours to the summit
Rock: very good, something to clean
Gear: normal climbing equipment +  big sizes nuts and cams
Note: historical route, nice and logical. It runs on slabs and chimneys and alternates exposed passages (IV) to other more easy. The rock is always dry.

2. Rosengarten peak, the “Gardenesi” route

Difficulty: VI and VI+ with a short A1 passage or VIII+
Height difference: 260 mt
Climbing route: 280 mt + 100 mt initial ramp
Rope-lengths: 10 + 100 mt initial ramp
Hours: 5 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 4,00-4,30 hours to the summit
Rock: very good, carved with little holes of various size
Gear: normal climbing equipment + some pitons, nuts, cams and 10 quickdraws. Bring some kevlar threads to use where the piton rings are too small.
Note: nice and logical route. It runs on slabs and chimneys and alternates exposed passages (4° pitch) to other more easy. The rock is always dry.

3. Rosengarten peak, Vinatzer route

Difficulty: V and V+
Height difference: 280 mt
Climbing route: 280 mt + 100 mt initial ramp
Rope-lengths: 10 + 100 mt initial ramp
Hours: 5 minutes from the hut to the starting point; 3,30-4,00 hours to the summit
Rock: very good
Gear: normal climbing equipment + some pitons, twelve/fourteen quickdraws
Note: route of great satisfaction on a wall of impressive verticality. Climbing here sometimes is more tiring than fun, but it's nice to look at it from the hut below thinking "I've done it."

Abseil from Rosengarten peak

From the summit, walk down the North ridge with "short rope" to the "normal route". At the fork, to the left, follow an exposed ledge (15 mt) that leads to the first cemented ring. The first abseil descends along the channel of ascent. This is followed by two 20 meters abseils using cemented rings. Head down to Santner pass refuge. From here, the path leads to the Re Alberto 1° refuge. Abseil time 2 hours.

King Laurin Pass

Ancient doorway to the "king Laurin's garden", it is a climbing route with II and III grade passages.
Not very popular but remarkable for the various course: the bell to ring, unusual lava flows, a tunnel in the rock to go through and the majestic view of the North side face of the towers that rise even more slender.
Start from the Fronza Coronelle refuge. Turn left on a little marked path just under the impressive wall of the king Laurin's crag. The climbing starts where a royal crown is painted on the rock. There are about 7/8 pitches, and you will come out a few meters above the Re Alberto 1° refuge.
There are two ways back: down the Santner pass via ferrata or by making the tour around the Rosengarten, descending to the Vajolet refuge and then step by Coronelle pass. Climbing schedule 3-4 hours.

Rosengarten south esast face

1. Placcomania route (“a devil as a friend”)

Difficulty: VI-, one VI passage
Height difference: 350 mt
Climbing route: 409 mt
Rope-lengths: 11
Hours: 4,15 – 5,00
Rock: very good, excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: beautiful rock climbing on good/excellent rock, several times on solid rock slabs.

2. Dimai route

Difficulty: III-IV
Height difference: 350 mt
Climbing route: 411 mt
Rope lentghs: 11
Hours: 3,30 – 4,00
Rock: good, the beginning has to be cleaned a little
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: the most direct route, which takes place on good rock in the first pitches and excellent in the second half. In the upper area it offers a pleasant climbing along a chimney in a big wall.

3. Fantasia route

Difficulty: V- 
Height difference: 420 mt
Climbing route: 458 mt
Rope-lentghs: 13
Hours: 4,00 – 4,30
Rock: good, excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment + cams no. 2/3

4. Steger route

Difficulty: V+, one VI- passage
Height difference: 733 mt + 70 mt to the summit
Rope-lentghs: 20 + 70 mt to the summit
Hours: 6-7
Rock: good, excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment
Note: the route is a great direct line but offers several variants

5. Leviti-Nemela route

Difficulty: V+, VI, one VII passage
Height difference: 580 mt 
Rope-lentghs: 11
Hours: 6,30 – 8,00
Rock: good, excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment + nuts and cams

Abseil from Rosengarten peak

From the summit, walk down the North ridge with "short rope" to the "normal route". At the fork, to the left, follow an exposed ledge (15 mt) that leads to the first cemented ring. The first abseil descends along the channel of ascent. This is followed by two 20 meters abseils using cemented rings. Head down to Santner pass refuge. From here, the path leads to the Re Alberto 1° refuge. Abseil time 2 hours.

Emma peak

“Fedele” route

Difficulty: V-
Height difference: 400 mt
Climbing route: 350 mt + 80 mt to the summit
Rope-lentghs: 11 + 80 mt to the summit Hours: 4,00
Rock: good
Gear: normal climbing equipment + medium size cams
Note: this itinerary is rich in variety, enjoyable and very popular. It's the most pleasant route among those of comparable difficulty.

“Steger” route

Difficulty: V, one V+ passage
Height difference: 400 mt
Climbing route: 410 mt + 110 mt to the summit
Rope-lentghs: 11 + 110 mt to the summit Hours: 4,00
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment + medium size nuts
Note: the most classical route of the Emma peak, with several various climbing situations.

“Piaz” crack

Difficulty: V
Height difference: 350 mt
Climbing route: 294 mt + 110 mt to the summit
Rope-lentghs: 9 + 110 mt to the summit Hours: 3,00–3,30
Rock: excellent
Gear: normal climbing equipment + few kevlar threads and nuts
Note: Tita Piaz, the first climber of the Emma peak, was also the first to climb the striking corner line on its East face, a remarkable bravery in the history of alpinism if you consider that he did the route in the year 1900, solo! Do not underestimate the 4° pitch who presents continuous climbing difficulties.

Abseil the Emma peak

From the mountaintop follow the ridge towards the West side and, near to its end, descend in the northern direction (having the Vajolet towers in front) for about 30 mt (II grade). Then, turn left and descend for 15 mt along a hidden ramp (NW, II grade) following the direction of the Emma peak fork. A cemented ring on the left helps to abseil for 25 mt. Reach in short time the path no. 542. Abseil time in 40 minutes.

All descriptions are taken from:
A. Bernard, La nuova guida del Catinaccio, Ed. Mediterranee 1996
M. Bernardi, Arrampicare sul Catinaccio e dintorni, Ed. Athesia 2009